X-Base Farmhouse Table

Breakfast in bed is a real treat. It’s a surefire method for courting a potential partner or wooing an already intimate companion. However, eating all your meals in bed because you don’t have a table is a good way to get soup on the sheets and dijon on the duvet.

So, with that in mind (and a generous birthday gift card to Lowe’s  from Bethany’s parents, Mike and Lori Holder) I set out to build a table sturdy enough to use as a work table and handsome enough to stand next to The Tiny Shiny.

I found a table I liked at Restoration Hardware and set out to locate some free plans to build something similar. Their Table…

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Image via Restoration Hardware

It’s listed between $3095 – $4395 depending on size, so if you’ve got some disposable income, look no further, RH will ship it to you! But, if you’re a true DIYer or looking to save some money, see below. I made mine for $430.00, INCLUDING the price of the $299 (on sale when I purchased it) Ridgid 12 inch Dual Bevel Miter saw that I’ve been wanting for awhile. LOLZ. (For the old folks, that’s the plural form of LOL, I’m sure you knew that though!)

I found some promising plans from the folks at Build Something and got to work. I followed them pretty closely except for ripping the 2×10’s down to 2×8’s to achieve a cleaner square look. I regret that decision now but I don’t have a table saw yet and that’s too brave a cut for me and my circular saw so I’ll live with it.

Please see Build Something’s plan for the full explainer as it is their design, I’m just sharing my process and the slight alterations I made.

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Materials:

  1. 1 small box of 2 1/2 in. construction screws
  2. 1 small box of Kreg  Pocket-hole screws 
  3. 1 – 1 x 4 @ 10 ft
  4. 1 – 2 x 4 @ 10 ft
  5. 2 – 2 x 10’s @ 12ft
  6. 2 – 4×4’s @ 8 ft

Tools:

  1. Miter Saw
  2. Power Drill
  3. Kreg Pocket Hole Drill Bit
  4. Countersink bit (for construction screws)
  5. Clamps or a Bethany to hold things in place

After buying the materials, thanks again Lori and Mike! It’s time to cut. Some of the angled 4×4 cuts can be a little tough for the first-timers, but nothing to shy away from. They say measure twice and cut once, but if you’re anything like me it’s more of a measure four times and cut five. Just cut long until you nail your mark!

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Cut list as follows:

  1. 4 – 2 x 4’s, @ 30″
  2. 2 – 4 x 4’s, @ 24 1/4″
  3. 4 – 1 x 4’s, @ 3 1/2 “
  4. 2 – 1 x 4’s, long side at 37 1/2″ beveled at 45 degrees (one of my alterations, not pictured here)
  5. 4 – 2x 10’s, @ 70″
  6. 8 – 4 x 4’s, long side @ 18 1/8″, for the angles: one side should be 43 degrees the other, 47 degrees.

Then countersink all your screw-holes, (4 at each point the pieces come in contact) and assemble with construction screws.  Hint: the 43 degree angle rests on the 4 x 4, and the 47 degree angle on the 2 x 4. You would have figured that out sooner or later though.

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Once legs are assembled add the (1×4) feet. Again with the countersink and 4 construction screws (I didn’t use finish nails as they recommended because I didn’t want to buy more stuff).

Find a giant Maguey Plant (AKA Agave Americana, Century Plant) to hold the legs for a photo-op…

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Then the really tough part, for me at least. I absolutely massacred the pocket-hole section of this design. The idea is to hide your screws beneath the tabletop by drilling angled (22 degree) holes with the Kreg Pocket-Hole Bit and following with the Kreg Pocket-Hole Screws to attach each 2×10 together. The plans called for 8 evenly spaced holes in three of the boards, connecting all four in the process. After botching the first eight I thought, “I’ll just put as many into it as I can until it stays together.”

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Almost there! Now you need to attach the legs to the table top. Here is where my plan veered from the original plan ever so slightly. Because I didn’t rip the 2 x 10’s down to 2 x 8’s, my table top would actually be 8″inches wider than theirs, a plus for me in more tabletop space but with 8 inches of overhang. So, to add a little flair I decided I wanted to use the leftover 1×4 piece (on the cut list as long side @ 37 1/2″ and beveled at 45 degrees) to bridge the overhang and give another angle for the eye to catch. You can see it in the photo below (it’s the light colored Pine at the base of the top).

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Screw it all together and BAM! You’ve got yourself an X-Base Farmhouse Table for $130 or so if you don’t buy the Miter Saw.

Still to come: Staining, finish, and underneath support beam once I figure out what to use!

P

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6 thoughts on “X-Base Farmhouse Table

  1. Looks like a great table for many a memorable meal!

    P.S. You definitely need to work on the hiding your screws part – maybe practice on some wood scraps. LOLZ

    Like

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